Roaming the hillsides of East Petaluma, Chinese Meishan pigs forage in the orchards and pastures of Honeybutter Farm, occasionally greeting anyone who happens to be passing by, almost like a friendly dog.
Honeybutter Farm, a quiet agricultural hub nestled into the golden rolling hills of Southeast Sonoma County, has become home to a pig breed that originates on the other side of the Pacific Ocean.
“I thought pigs would be a great addition and the Meishan are a great breed. They are friendly and have the highest rate of grazing,” Honeybutter Farm owner Bob Turley said standing in front of three young Meishans that had just arrived.
Among the oldest domestic swine breeds in the world, Meishan pigs are native to Southern China and are named after Meishan county in the Jiangsu Province. They are best known for their high foraging rate and above-average litters, with sows birthing as many as 22 piglets at once. Although smaller than the commercial breeds commonly found in North America, the Meishans are also known for their excellent meat quality, as well as mild temperament and large ears that droop over their wrinkly faces.
In 1989, the United States Department of Agriculture Research Service imported Meishan pigs to study their high fertility rate. After the study concluded in 2016, the Meishans were distributed to U.S. farmers.
“America now has the largest population of Meishans — more than China,” Farm manager Jordan Shavis said, having recently returned from a Meishan conference.
When the Livestock Conservancy, a nonprofit focusing on rare breeds, declared the Meishan pig critically endangered in 2018, major conservation efforts were set in motion that ultimately resulted in the breed’s revival. Today, Meishans are no longer endangered, though they are still considered threatened, as population numbers remain on the low side despite improvement.
Having the highest foraging rate of any other pig breed, Meishans are considered to be the perfect livestock animal for homesteaders — small, mostly noncommercial farmers. This breed thrives on a high-fiber diet, allowing them to forage extensively and consume large amounts of organic plant matter. In fact, the high fiber content in their diet is essential for their digestive health.
A natural fit for regenerative farming
As a true grazing hog, they are well-suited for open pastures and regenerative agriculture systems. Being able to utilize pasture resources effectively also means that less feed is needed to nourish the livestock, in turn decreasing the overall environmental impact and financial strain of raising a hog.
In addition to saving money on feed costs, the calm temperament and strong foraging instincts allow the heritage breed to play a useful role in regenerative agriculture: a farming practice focused on rebuilding soil health, increasing biodiversity and strengthening the long-term resilience of farm ecosystems. With rotational grazing practices set in motion, the Meishans root through compacted ground, consuming weeds and available organic plant matter while also returning nutrients to the soil. This natural process reduces reliance on fossil fuel machinery and synthetic fertilizers. The breed’s natural behavior helps cycle nutrients, prepare planting areas and promote healthier soil in an organic and eco-conscious manner.
Paulina Binsfeld, farm program coordinator at Honeybutter Farm who holds a master’s degree in organic agriculture and agroecology, praised the role of Meishan pigs in a regenerative agriculture system.
“Not only are they grazing but they are also turning up the soil. This means we are not using fossil fuels to do the work. The pigs are building protein while getting rid of this invasive grass,” Binsfeld explained as three Meishans foraged on the hillside under an orchard. In this sense, the entire ecosystem benefits from the intrinsic behavior of the heritage breed, creating healthy conditions for the soil while also nourishing the sounder.
Consequently, the instinct to forage means Meishan pigs have excellent meat quality with fine marbling. A cut from this breed more closely resembles a beef steak than a typical pork chop.
Not only are they grazing but they are also turning up the soil. This means we are not using fossil fuels to do the work.
Paulina Binsfeld, farm program coordinator at Honeybutter Farm
“They’re genetically predisposed for producing higher meat quality. And because they forage, they are a lot more active,” Shavis said.
The physical activity of foraging organic plant matter combined with their slow-growth physiology produces high-quality pork as Meishans deposit more fat than common breeds. These deposits create better marbling, producing a richer flavor, juiciness and tenderness. Meishans have the highest intramuscular fat content compared to other common breeds such as Yorkshires.
With the addition of a boar and a gilt (female), the folks at Honeybutter Farm look forward to welcoming their first litter of piglets.
“Bob wants to call him Abraham, the father of many,” Brittany Turley said in reference to their only boar in the six-hog sounder, or pack.
There likely will soon be at least 15 more Meishans lounging around the pastures as the sounder grows. The farmers are even considering becoming commercial Meishan breeders in the future, though not soon as they are just beginning to bolster their livestock.
“It’s been wonderful, but we still have a long way to go,” Bob said. “We just completed year one.”