THEY WERE TO WESTERN SONOMA COUNTY what Kona is to macadamia nuts, or sockeye salmon to Bristol Bay: a food emblematic of the region, a comestible that simultaneously drove the local economy and served as a cultural icon.
But that was many years ago. Gravenstein apple orchards were once ubiquitous in the rolling hills and fertile vales surrounding the town of Sebastopol. Back then, close to 15,000 acres of “Gravs” grew here, and several large processors turned the fruit into sauce, cider and vinegar for distribution across the nation. And now?
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