Lei Pan’s daughter’s 18th birthday approached. He went shopping that January day for a cake from Safeway and long noodles from a local grocery store in San Francisco’s Chinatown. In Chinese tradition, eating those noodles on a birthday harkens a long life for the celebrant. Pan found it harder to pay for his shopping — the previous May, he had stopped working for the Lee’s Deli restaurant chain.
The restaurant owners still owed him about $2,000 in unpaid wages. By spring, the last locations closed, ending the Bay Area chain’s 40-year history across about a dozen locations. The closure also ended his hopes that the owners would give him back pay, which had become more and more scant as the COVID-19 pandemic ravaged the restaurant.
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