Vineyards in Napa, Calif., on Oct. 14, 2017. (Lance Cheung/USDA via Bay City News)

In the rugged hills to the east of the Napa Valley, chainsaws and bulldozers converted a steep hillside of scrubby oak woodland and rockpiles into another vineyard.

“That was an incredible rock-hopping wonderland, with frothing, amazing, waterfalling cascades every time it rained — I mean, it should have been a park,” said nearby resident Kellie Anderson of what is now a plot of grapevines at Bremer Family Winery, in the small community of Deer Park.

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