MELISSA LUNDEN NAILED IT when she explained why El Niño causes flooding without rain.

“It doesn’t mean rain, it doesn’t mean floods, it doesn’t mean anything like that,” said Lunden, the Exploratorium’s senior scientist-in-residence. “It means that the water is abnormally warm.”

El Niño is a naturally occurring phenomenon in which the equatorial zone of the Pacific Ocean is 0.5°C hotter than normal, creating a giant swollen wave, thousands of miles long.

“It tends to happen every two to seven years,” said Lunden, adding the cycle alternates between hot and cold. “A La Niña is when this same area is 0.5°C cooler than normal.”

Lunden spoke at the San Francisco science museum’s Thursday After Dark lecture series. She described the phenomenon within global, local and historical contexts.

Centuries ago, Peruvian and Ecuadorian fishermen named the ocean current El Niño de Navidad (The Christmas Boy) because the warm water typically arrived near Christmastime, she said. Prehistoric evidence is even found through markers left on coral reefs.

“The ocean isn’t flat,” Lunden said, adding it is shaped by gravity and wind and other factors. “The ocean has all kinds of shapes to it.”

El Nino is like a planetary-scale warm water worm. Scientifically, it is called a Kelvin wave. It moves across the ocean at about 6 mph.

“You can see as it moves, it pushes the water down,” she said. “You get the wave, and then you can see on the surface it’s thickening the ocean.”

Global effects

El Niño is not caused by climate change, but climate change can amplify some of its effects, including higher water levels during coastal flooding. This year, El Nino has already set off a whole raft of effects around the globe, Lunden said.

The phenomenon kicks off along the equator. Trade winds that push warm water into the Western Pacific weaken when episodically hit with opposing winds. That causes a pool of warm water to move in the opposite direction and hit the coast of South America. From there it moves north to California and south to Peru, she said.

A global temperature anomaly map from November 7, 2026, showing widespread warming with a prominent red band across the equatorial Pacific Ocean.
A graphic shows the areas of the Pacific Ocean where there is a temperature anomaly, or where ocean temperatures are warmer than normal for this time of year on Nov. 6, 2026. (Copernicus Marine MyOcean Light Viewer via Bay City News)

When that warm water is where it’s supposed to be, near Indonesia, the heat that rises from the warm water is drawn into a global jet stream. But when the warm water pools off California, it just causes havoc.

“I think of it as having a pasta pot on the stove,” Lunden said. “When I move it under the exhaust fan, the fan draws all the steam away. When I move it away from the exhaust fan, suddenly my house is full of steam, and it is condensing water onto the windows and on everything.”

A map showing sea surface height anomalies on November 13, 2026, with warm colors indicating elevated water levels along the coast and cooler colors inland.
A graphic from the lab of physical oceanographer Dillon Amaya showing the coastal wave, represented in red, on Friday, Nov. 13, 2026 is shown during lecture on the science of El Nino at the Exploratorium in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, Nov. 5. The wave is caused by El Nino conditions where sea surface height that is higher than normal. (Dillon J. Amaya/North Carolina State University via Bay City News)

By moving a pot of hot water to a different place, all the conditions of the environment change. The result for California will be increased rain and snowfall.

“It’s just doing something different to the atmosphere that is our house, basically,” Lunden said. “Like flooding on sunny days.”

Growing coastal flood risks

“Sea levels in San Francisco are already eight inches higher than they were in 1900,” Lunden said. “Then we’ve got the king tides, which can raise the water levels to rise between 12 inches and 24 inches. Then we have storms.”

This infographic illustrates coastal flooding scenarios caused by sea level rise, king tides, and El Niño, detailing duration and physical processes for different flood magnitudes.
A graphic showing the cumulative elements that lead to flooding in California is seen during a lecture explaining El Nino by Senior Scientist-in-Residence Melissa Lunden at the Exploratorium in San Francisco, Calif., on Thursday, Nov. 5, 2026. Permanent sea levels in San Francisco are eight inches higher than they were in 1992. King tides can last days and raise levels another one to two feet, El Nino oceanic warming can raise levels from six to 20 inches and last for months, and storms, with surges and waves can raise levels another foot or two. (Christina Richardson/UC Santa Cruz via Bay City News)

In the first week of January, a storm brought a surge that was 1.3 inches higher than the king tide, caused by alignment of the Earth, the sun and the moon, that happened at the same time. This month, king tides are predicted to peak on the day before Thanksgiving and the day before Christmas, as well as Jan. 20 to 23.

A bar chart shows that November 3, 2026, recorded a record-breaking high sea surface temperature of 18.6°C (65.5°F), surpassing all previous November 3 records.
A graphic shows the difference in water temperature at the Farallon Island National WXXX on Nov. 3, 2026 . The average water temperature this time of year is usually 49 degrees, but El Nino conditions have caused an oceanic heat wave with water temperatures as high as 65.5 degrees. (UC San Diego via Bay City News)

“With king tides, we could get another one or two feet of additional water rise,” she said. “That could be some significant flooding in areas where we normally don’t see it.”

Ruth Dusseault is an investigative reporter and multimedia journalist focused on environment and energy. Her position is supported by the California local news fellowship, a statewide initiative spearheaded by UC Berkeley aimed at supporting local news platforms. While a student at UC Berkeley’s Graduate School of Journalism (c’23), Ruth developed stories about the social and environmental circumstances of contaminated watersheds around the Great Lakes, Mississippi River and Florida’s Lake Okeechobee. Her thesis explored rights of nature laws in small rural communities. She is a former assistant professor and artist in residence at Georgia Tech’s School of Architecture, and uses photography, film and digital storytelling to report on the engineered systems that undergird modern life.